Tish's Tips
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Outdoor Annuals....Indoors!
Start thinking about what you will do with your summer annuals once the weather turns cool. Most plants should be removed and composted, but some can be brought indoors as houseplants. Begonias, caladiums, coleus and geraniums can all be kept this way. Before the weather begins dropping below 55 degrees, dig your plants, trim them back and put them in a decorative container. Make sure they stay moist. Allow the plants to settle in their new pots for about a month before fertilizing at half strength.
WHEN TO HARVEST VEGETABLES
Asparagus: Begin harvesting when spears are 6-10 inches tall and before heads open. Snap them off at ground level; new spears will continue to grow. Stop when the average spear diameter is less than 1/4 inch.
Beans (snap): Pick before you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two. Check daily, as they will get tough quickly.
Beans (lima): Pick when well filled, but not over-mature.
Beets: You can harvest and eat the green tops that you thin out of the rows. Beets are somewhat a matter of preference when it comes to the right size. Most prefer a diameter of 1.5 to 2 inches, but they are ready any time after the shoulders come above the soil line.
Broccoli: We eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check often as weather warms, and get them before they bloom (don't expect your heads to get to supermarket size). Harvest when the buds are about the size of a match head. Remove with a sharp knife; leave between 4 and 6 inches of stem.
Brussels Sprouts: Harvest when they are green, plump and firm (usually an inch or more in diameter). Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem.
Cabbage: Harvest cabbage when the head is firm and has reached adequate size, depending on the variety and growing conditions.
Cantaloupe (muskmelon): The color should change to beige and the fruit will "slip" from the stem easily. You may be able to notice a sweet smell when ripe.
Carrots: Depending on variety, pull when about 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter. The top of the carrot will show at the soil line; you can gauge when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too.
Cauliflower: As with broccoli, your cauliflower heads will probably not get to supermarket size. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
Chard (Swiss): Harvest as leaves become large enough.
Collards (kale and mustard): Harvest young plants or lower leaves on older plants. Leaves should be young and tender. Taste improves with cool weather.
Corn: Pick after the silks become brown. The kernels should exude a milky substance when pricked.
Cucumber: Check daily and harvest early (if harvesting for pickling, even earlier). Timing and length will vary with variety. The fruits should be firm and smooth. Over-ripe cucumbers can be very bitter or pithy, even before they start to turn yellow.
Eggplant: Slightly immature fruits taste best. The fruits should be firm and shiny. Cut rather than pull from the plant.
Garlic: The garlic tops will fall over and begin to brown when the bulbs are ready. Dig gently, don't pull, and allow to dry before storing. Shake off dirt rather than washing.
Kohlrabi: For the best texture, harvest once the kohlrabi "bulb" is between two and three inches in diameter. Too much larger than that and it will be tough and woody.
Leeks: Harvest leeks when they are about 1 inch in diameter.
Lettuce (Head): Harvest once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.
Lettuce (Leaf): Harvest the outer leaves once the plant has reached about 4 inches in height. Allow the younger, inner leaves to grow. Leaf lettuce can be harvested in this fashion for quite some time. If seed stalks begin to form, harvest the whole plant immediately and refrigerate.
Okra: Harvest frequently; figure about 3-4 days from flower to mature pod. Err on on the immature side--the pods get woody and tough as they get older. Remove old pods, even if you missed one too long, so they'll keep producing. Wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting; okra has small spines (they look like hairs) that can make you itchy--even 'spineless' varieties have some.
Onions: Onions can be dug once at least half the tops have ripened and fallen over. Allow the onions to dry in the sun.
Onions (bunching): Dig before bulbing starts or before they become too thick (over 1/2 inch diameter).
Peas (English): The pea pods should look and feel full. Peas are sweeter if harvested before fully plumped. Peas really need to be tasted (raw) to determine if they are sweet enough.
Peas (edible pod): Harvest when the pods are fully developed, but before seeds are more than half size. (You'll need to develop a feel for this one.)
Peppers (bell, sweet): Fruit should be full size but still green, firm and crisp in texture. If red fruits are desired, leave on plant until red color develops.
Peppers (chile): Fresh fruit should be full size, shiny green to slightly red, firm and crisp in texture. Dry red fruit should be allowed to turn completely red and dry on plant.
Potatoes (Irish): "New" potatoes can be harvested when the tops start to flower. Carefully dig at the outer edges of the row. For full size potatoes, wait until the tops of the potato plants dry and turn brown. Start digging from the outside perimeter and move in cautiously to avoid slicing into potatoes.
Potatoes (sweet): before freezing weather. Cure under warm conditions (80°-85° F) for a week.
Pumpkins: Once the pumpkins have turned the expected color and the vines are starting to decline, they can be cut from their vines.
Radishes: Radishes mature quickly. Harvest as soon as they reach edible size. They will go quickly to seed.
Rhubarb: Delay harvest until second year after establishment. Established plantings (3 years) can be harvested for about 8 weeks. Harvest the largest stalks by grasping each stalk near the base and pulling slightly in one direction.
Rutabagas: The bulbs should be about 3 inches in diameter. Rutabagas can be mulched, left in the ground and dug up as needed. Cold weather improves their flavor.
Spinach: Spinach goes to seed quickly. Harvest by cutting at the soil line before you see a flower stalk beginning to shoot up. Or cut just below the crown for a one-time harvest.
Squash (Summer): Pick young and check often. The skins should be tender enough to poke your fingernail through.
Squash (Winter): Color is a good indicator of winter squash maturity. When the squash turns the color it is supposed to be, cut from the vine.
Tomatoes: For the best taste, harvest tomatoes when they are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch. Gently twist and pull from the vine. If your plant looks like it may be over-producing, you can also harvest some as they start to ripen and let them finish indoors. If you like fried green tomatoes, harvest as they reach full size (or just as the first color change begins, if you like them a bit less tart).
Turnips: The turnip shoulders should be about 1.5 to 3 inches in diameter at the soil line, when ready. Overripe turnips become woody.
Watermelons: The white spot on the bottom of the melon should change to yellow when ripe. Some people can hear a change in the sound made when the melon is thumped with a finger.
Thirsty Plants, Hot Days - Why Are These Numbers Important? 89-95-86
THIRSTY PLANTS, HOT DAYS - WHY ARE THESE NUMBERS IMPORTANT?89 - 95 - 86
People who regularly irrigate their lawn and garden have asked me what is wrong with their plants. They assume that by keeping them watered, plants should be fine, but in the kind of heat we have been experiencing, plants lose water faster than they can take it up from the soil. This is especially true with herbaceous (nonwoody) plants.
Look around and you will see plants that have lost their green color and look yellowish or gray or just plain bleached out with leaves showing scorched brown areas, curling, wilting, and flowers drying up or no flowering at all.
Plants transpire, just like we perspire, to cool off. Not only does water help plants transpire, it runs the whole system. The vacuum created as vapor escapes pulls water up through the plant tissues, distributing nutrients. Water pressure keeps the green parts of plants firm and upright.
Water is also necessary for photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the process by which plants transform light energy from the sun into chemical energy that drives a plant's growth processes. Chlorophyll is the molecule that converts sunlight, water and carbon dioxide into a usable form of energy or glucose. So the less water, the less photosynthesis occurs.
When the temperature rises above 89 degrees, most plants burn chlorophyll quickly; the green can disappear and plant functions will start to shut down. The problem will accelerate as the temperature increases to 95 degrees.
Another crucial number is 86 degrees. That's the temperature at which plant cells start to suffer damage. If the air temperature stays above that point for a long period of time, especially if it doesn't fall much at night to give plants relief, it can cause lasting harm.
We all know that plants vary in their ability to take the heat. Three of the most popular plants in the landscape are among the first to show signs of heat stress: Hydrangeas, azaleas and dogwoods. Other plants, including pine trees, yaupon hollies and dwarf nandinas, are more heat tolerant. If our landscapes were full of cacti, I guess we would be in good shape.
Leaf scorch occurs when temperatures are too high and water is lost from leaves so fast the internal plumbing can't replace it. Edges and tips of leaves show scorch first, although whole leaves eventually can dry up.
Wilt is the most obvious sign of extreme heat, but wilt isn't always caused by a lack of water, as many people believe. In fact, too much water can cause the same visual symptoms as too little.
The location of your plants also makes a difference. Plants next to a concrete driveway that absorbs and radiates heat will have temperatures much higher than what is on the thermometer. Same thing applies to your potted plants on a patio. The only plants that are remotely happy are those in the shade.
In periods of extreme heat, keep your plants properly watered. When you water trees and shrubs, give them a good soaking with a drip hose or hand water them. Water deeply to get the moisture to quench the thirst of those roots down within the subsoil. This encourages deeper root growth and makes your plants better able to withstand drought.
To avoid fungus problems that come with heat and humidity, it’s best to avoid putting your plants to bed wet. Try to water early enough that plants can dry before it gets dark.
You may want to add some mulch to keep the plant roots cooler and to help conserve moisture. If they are already mulched, add more if needed. Use organic mulch. Gravel actually increases the heat around plants.
Solving Your Tomato Problems
Here's a great video I found on tomato problems. Enjoy.www.youtube.com/watch
Retailer of the Year
And the Winner is… “Retailer of the Year” in Hampton, Va. goes to Countryside Gardens. Retail Alliance, the association for retailing merchants since 1903 just announced the winners of the Retailer of the Year awards. Recipients were selected based on excellence in creativity, business acumen, retail success and the ability to thrive in a tough economy. “Running a business is no simple task; the market is challenging and the obstacles retailers face are difficult,” says Retail Alliance President & CEO Susan Milhoan.” It takes more than the ordinary entrepreneur to succeed in this competitive environment. Retailers deserve to be recognized for outstanding customer service and devotion to their community.” Countryside Gardens also received the Daily Press “Peoples Choice” award for Best Garden Center in Hampton and is the only garden center in Virginia to be voted as one of the “Top 100 garden centers in the United States” five years in a row by Today’s Garden Center Magazine. Tish Llaneza, owner of Countryside Gardens credits her staff for the award. They have, “Fire in their belly” for gardening and enjoy sharing their knowledge with our guests. All the work in the office wouldn’t mean much if our guests aren’t pleased.”
Countryside Gardens is Shovel Ready
Are you shovel ready?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWjdWXjClh4
Savvy Shoppers Shop at Countryside Gardens
The article below was recently featured in the Daily Press, Savvy Shopper.Countryside Gardens in Hampton has best price on tomatoes
Tish Llaneza, the owner Countryside Gardens in Hampton, has made sure that she's the lowest price in town for tomato plants.
Here's what she says in an e-mail:
"I wanted to let you that April 15 is the average last day of frost in this area and then warm season vegetables can be planted. But the starting time to plant cool season vegetables is now."
Countryside's four-pack of tomatoes is $1.79 (no limit), she says. One tomato plant at McDonalds Garden Center is $2.95. Anderson's Home & Garden Showplace in Newport News has just a few in stock (there is still a threat of frost, so you need to protect the plants if you're going to buy them now). The four-packs will be $2.99 when they come in. Individual packs will cost between $2.99 and $3.99 (for heirloom).
Countryside Gardens is located at 220 E. Mercury Blvd in Hampton. Call 722-9909 for more information.
http://weblogs.dailypress.com/features/shoppingblog/2010/03/countryside_gardens_in_hampton.html
Evaluate Your Gardens
Take advantage of winter downtime and put your gardener's brain to work on what's right and what's wrong with your garden.The landscape is at its barest point in the year which give an opportunity to assess whether the trees and major shrubs enhance the setting of your house, or are so tall and wide that the house is obscured (or at least diminished).
Tomato List 2010
This is a partial list of the tomatoes we will be carrying this spring.
All tomatoes with an "H" are heirloom tomatoes. Heirloom tomato cultivars can be found in a wide variety of colors, shapes, flavors and sizes. An heirloom is generally considered to be a variety that has been passed down, through several generations of a family because of it's valued characteristics.
Abe Lincoln - H
Amelia
Beefmaster
Beefsteak - H
Better Boy
Better Bush
Big Beef - H
Big Boy
Black Krim - H
Brandywine Pink - H
Brandywine Yellow - H
Bush Early Girl
Caro Rich - H
Celebrity
Cherry Husky
Early Girl
German Johnson - H
Golden Girl
Golden Jubilee - H
Juliett
Lemon Boy
Marglobe
Mortgage Lifter - H
Mountain Pride - H
Mr. Stripey - H
Parks Whopper
Roma
Rutgers - H
Santa Grape
Small Fry Hybrid
Sugar Snack
Sugary Grape - H
Super Bush
Super Steak
Super Sweet 100
SuperSonic
Sweetie Seedless
Tomatillo
Tomato Berry
Yellow Pear - H
*H = Heirloom
How to protect evergreens from ice and snow
In case we receive snow or ice, remove snow from evergreens. Brush snow from evergreens as soon as possible after a storm. Use a broom in an upward, sweeping motion. Serious damage may be caused by heavy snow or ice accumulating on the branches. Prop up ice-covered branches and let the ice melt rather than trying to remove ice from brittle branches.
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